Ushguli and Svaneti: Medieval Towers at the Top of Georgia

By the Dook International travel team | Updated 31 October 2026 | 8 min read

Most Indian travellers seeGeorgia through Tbilisi, Kazbegi and the wine country. Svaneti is the part thatfeels like another century. Stone towers rise from every village, glaciers hangabove the fields, and at the end of the road Ushguli sits beneath Mount Shkhara,Georgia's highest peak.

It takes effort to get here, and that is part of the appeal. This guide covers what you will see, every way to reach Mestia and Ushguli, how many days to plan, and the best time of year.

Svaneti and Ushguli at a glance

•     Region: Upper Svaneti, in the Greater Caucasus of north-western Georgia

•     Main town: Mestia, the base for most trips

•     Ushguli: A community of small villages at about 2,100 metres, described as one of the highest continuously inhabited settlements in Europe

•     UNESCO status: Upper Svaneti was inscribed as a World Heritage Site in 1996

•     Population: only a couple of hundred people live in Ushguli year-round

•     Winter: snow covers the area for about half the year, and the road to Mestia is often impassable

Source: UNESCO World Heritage Centre, Upper Svaneti.

The Svan towers: why they were built

The towers you see across Svaneti are defensive tower houses, mostly built between the 9th and 12thcenturies. They are three to five storeys tall, built of stone, and attached to family homes. Families retreated into them during raids and long-running feuds, and the narrow windows high up were for watching and defending.

In Ushguli, dozens of towers still stand together in the village of Chazhashi, which gives the place its unforgettable skyline. Some are now small museums, and a few guesthouses let you see inside.

Lamaria Church

On a hilltop above the villageof Zhibiani stands Lamaria, a small 12th-century church with frescoes fromGeorgia's medieval golden age. The walk up gives the classic view of the towerswith Mount Shkhara behind them.

Mestia: your base in Svaneti

Mestia is the region's maintown, with hotels, guesthouses, restaurants, and cash machines. Spend at least aday here before heading to Ushguli.

•     SvanetiMuseum of History and Ethnography: icons, manuscripts and treasures thatthe Svans protected for centuries in their towers.

•     Towers intown: Mestia has its own tower houses, and some are open to visitors.

•      Hatsvali and Tetnuldi: ski areas inwinter, and lifts and hiking in summer.

How to get to Mestia from Tbilisi

There are three ways to reachMestia. Each has trade-offs.

By small plane

Vanilla Sky flies from Natakhtari airfield near Tbilisi toMestia's Queen Tamar Airport in about 40 minutes, a few times a week. It is thefastest option and a spectacular flight, but the plane is small, the baggageallowance is low, and flights are often cancelled in bad weather. Never plan atight connection around it.

By overnight train and minibus

An overnight train runs fromTbilisi to Zugdidi, leaving in the evening and arriving early in the morning.From Zugdidi, minibuses (marshrutkas) take about 3 to 4 hours up the mountainroad to Mestia. It is the cheapest route and saves a night's hotel.

By road

Driving from Tbilisi viaKutaisi and Zugdidi takes about 5 to 6 hours without stops, and closer to 8 or9 hours with breaks. The road is paved all the way to Mestia, though the lastsection is narrow and winding. A private car with a driver is the mostcomfortable option for families.

Source: GT Tours Georgia, how to get to Svaneti (April 2026).

Mestia to Ushguli: the 4x4 road

Ushguli is about 45 km fromMestia, but the road is mostly unpaved, with rocky sections, river crossings, and steep drops without guardrails. Regular cars cannot manage it, so travellersgo by 4x4, usually a shared or private jeep from Mestia's main square in themorning.

•     Sources give anything from 1.5 to 4 hours eachway, depending on the vehicle, the weather, and stops. Plan on about 2 to 3hours.

•     Go as a day trip, or better, stay a night inUshguli to see the towers at sunrise and sunset without the crowds.

•      Inwinter and early spring, the road is often closed or only passable with aserious 4x4 and chains. Check conditions in Mestia before you set out.

Walking there: the Mestia to Ushguli trek

For fit walkers, the classicway to arrive is on foot. The trek covers about 57 km over four days, stayingin family guesthouses in Zhabeshi, Adishi and Iprali. The hardest day crosses apass of about 2,700 metres, and there is a glacial river to ford near Adishi,where locals offer horse rides across in summer. The season runs from June toOctober, with mid-September the quietest. For more trails across the country,read our guide to hiking in Georgia.

How many days to plan

•     Day 1: travelfrom Tbilisi to Mestia by plane, overnight train or road.

•     Day 2: Mestiamuseum and towers, then a lift or short hike at Hatsvali.

•     Day 3: 4x4to Ushguli. Walk up to Lamaria Church and stay the night.

•     Day 4: Sunriseover the towers, then back to Mestia and onwards.

Add a buffer day if you areflying, in case the weather cancels your flight.

Best time for an Ushguli Svaneti tour

•     June toSeptember: the most reliable roads, green valleys and open guesthouses.Mid-July to early September is the safest window for the Ushguli road.

•     September:fewer crowds and autumn colour, with cooler nights.

•      Winter: Mestia becomes a ski base, butUshguli is often cut off. If you want snow, read our guide to Georgia in winter.

Where to stay and what it costs

Mestia has the widest choice,from simple guesthouses to comfortable hotels. Ushguli has family guesthousesonly. A trek guide checking prices in September 2026 found rooms for two atabout 40 to 60 lari, room only, and dorm-style beds at about 20 to 30 lari perperson. Many guesthouses offer home-cooked dinners for an extra charge. Book aheadfor July and August.

Tips for Indian travellers

•     Ushguli is at about 2,100 metres. Take it easyon the first walk, and drink plenty of water.

•     Vegetarians can rely on khachapuri (cheesebread) and potato-and-cheese dishes. Kubdari, the famous Svan pie, is filledwith meat, so check before ordering.

•     Carry cash in Georgian lari. Ushguli has no cashmachines.

•     Pack warm layers, even in summer. Mountainevenings are cold.